Patchouli is a shrubby herb from the mint family renowned for its distinctive sweet, woody, and spicy scent. Growing up to 1 meter tall, patchouli boasts large, fragrant leaves and is cultivated primarily for its oil. 

The essential oil from, native to tropical Asia, is very valuable in the world of perfumery.  

Patchouli, which is in the woody and oriental fragrance family, is often used as a base note in perfume compositions. Its strong and enduring scent provides a solid foundation upon which middle and top notes can shine. 

It mixes exceptionally well with a variety of other essential oils. This versatility allows it to be incorporated into diverse fragrance profiles, ranging from floral to oriental scents.

History of Patchouli

Patchouli was originally used for a variety of purposes, reflecting its rich and diverse history that spans centuries and continents. 

Here are some key eras where patchouli became popular:

• Ancient China: Patchouli was cultivated in China by the 5th century AD and used in Indian Ayurvedic medicine, valued for its health benefits.
• Victorian England: During the 19th century, patchouli became a symbol of high fashion and wealth and was used as an insect repellent to protect valuable oriental fabrics.
• Counterculture Movement: In the 1960s and 70s, patchouli was embraced by the counterculture as a symbol of non-conformity, with its earthy scent representing a break from mainstream norms. It was also believed to mask the scent of marijuana and alcohol.

What Does Patchouli Smell Like?

Patchouli smells earthy, spicy, and slightly sweet, creating a musky, and woody aroma that is distinctively rich. It evokes different feelings, from a sense of exotic richness to a more herbal or musty impression, depending on individual preferences.

In its essential oil form, patchouli is particularly potent, and usually needs to be diluted. The oil can be incredibly intoxicating, making it a popular choice for products needing a strong and enduring fragrance, such as perfumes, soaps, and candles.

Patchouli stands out for its versatility in fragrance blending. It serves as an excellent base note, harmonizing well with a variety of scents such as citrus, floral, and other woodsy notes. This adaptability makes it a preferred ingredient in many perfumes, enhancing the overall scent profile with its depth and lasting power.

Why Perfumers Use Patchouli

Patchouli is a favorite among perfumers, and for good reason. 

• Versatile base note: Patchouli’s earthy, woody, and sensual characteristics make it incredibly versatile. It’s commonly used as a base note and fixative, adding richness and depth to fragrances.
• Long-lasting: The oil’s enduring quality helps stabilize other ingredients. This means fragrances don’t just smell great; they last longer on the skin.
• Rich scent profile: Offering a complex aroma, patchouli adds an unmistakable earthy and woody note. This lends both depth and sensuality to fragrances.
• Natural insect repellent: I was shocked when I discovered that patchouli is a natural insect repellent but it’s true. You can smell nice and don’t have to swat the flies away. 

How is Patchouli oil made?

Making patchouli oil is a delicate process that transforms the leaves of the patchouli plant into a rich and aromatic essential oil. 

The journey begins with the patchouli plant. Its leaves are carefully harvested, ensuring they are at the perfect stage for oil extraction.

Once harvested, these leaves are then laid out to dry to prepare them for distillation by reducing moisture content.

The dried leaves undergo steam distillation, which helps release the essential oil from the plant material.

As the steam carries the oil from the leaves, it’s then cooled and condensed. This results in a separation of water and the coveted patchouli oil.

The end product is a heavy, strong essential oil characterized with one hell of a musky, woody scent.

What fragrances should you wear if you love Patchouli? 

If you’re a fan of patchouli, you’re in luck. 

There are some fantastic fragrances out there that beautifully incorporate this note. 

Here are a few recommendations:

• White Patchouli by Tom Ford: A clean, musky patchouli scent, intertwined with bold, peony and summer roses. A hint of coriander adds an exotic twist, while sleek wood notes and luxurious elegant white flowers create a sophisticated, classy scent. 
• Vanilla Royale Sugared Patchouli by Kayali: An intense fragrance that combines warm vanilla orchid, jasmine, golden rum, and a blend of sweet vanilla and patchouli notes. It has a warm and woody aroma with base notes of brown sugar, sugared patchouli, and musk, creating an overall rich and sultry scent.
• Flowerbomb by Viktor & Rolf: Flowerbomb has a solid base of musk and patchouli that give it a very deep and long-lasting nature. It’s absolutely a beast mode women’s fragrance, and it’s also one of Taylor Swift’s favorite perfumes.  

Which Notes Should You Pair With Patchouli?

Patchouli pairs beautifully with various notes such as

• Sandalwood: Adds to patchouli’s earthy and woody tones, creating a harmonious blend.
• Floral notes like Jasmine and Rose: These flowers bring warmth and depth, giving the fragrance a floral twist.
• Citrusy notes like bergamot: Citrus adds freshness and a sophisticated edge to the earthy patchouli.
• Spicy notes like black pepper and ginger: Spices enhance patchouli’s exotic and spicy side, making the scent more dynamic.

Why did hippies use patchouli?

Hippies used patchouli as a fragrance to mask the smell of marijuana and as a staple ingredient in some of the top fragrances of the 1960s and 70s. The earthy complexity of patchouli was linked to dirt and drug use, but this wasn’t always the case.

Why is patchouli oil offensive?

Patchouli oil is not inherently offensive; however, its strong, distinctive scent can be polarizing, with some people loving it and others finding it overpowering. The earthy, woody, and musky aroma of patchouli is intense and long-lasting, which may not appeal to everyone. Additionally, the use of patchouli in the 1960s and 70s counterculture movement, particularly by hippies, may have contributed to its divisive reputation. 

Where does patchouli come from?

Patchouli comes from India, Malaysia, and Indonesia. The word “patchouli” is derived from the Tamil words “patchai” (meaning green) and “ellai” (meaning leaf). It is believed to have made its way to the Middle East via the exotic silk route and was traditionally used to repel insects, particularly in the protection of cashmere and silk goods during trade.